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| July 29 - Aug 5 |
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Tom Ford was in fine form at Gucci, with zippered, youthful coats and jeans and a couple of outstanding ribbon dresses. Miuccia Prada revived a Twiggy-like silhouette at Miu Miu and Prada; Karl Lagerfelds Courrèges-inspired black-and-white tour de force at Fendi offered up glamorous snow-bunny fur ensembles and mod shifts. What about up-and-coming talent? Milan may not be a hotbed of activity for new designers, but British imports are bringing London street cool to the cobblestones of Milan. Luella Bartley showed early 70s-inspired skinhead garb; newly-appointed Bottega Veneta designer Giles Deacon rocked the traditional house with puffy bombers and extra-wide denim jeans; and, at Ruffo Research, Sophia Kokosalaki deftly manipulated leather and suede dresses in order to give them a slightly savage twist. Fendi It takes a talent like Karl Lagerfeld to channel 1960s street style, reinterpret it using only black and white, and get away with it. Fendis fall mod squad stormed the runway in white leather trousers and perky minidresses with Courréges-like cutouts that revealed a circular flash of skin; large contrasting zippers served as functional embellishments that ran along the back. Black coats were piped in white, knit turtleneck tops morphed into little leather skirts and silver lapels gave white jackets a bold touch. Lagerfeld only strayed from his two-tone palette to show a couple of gray sheared-fur suits, and a Space Odysseysilver dress that turned model Devon into a time-warping visitor from the future. Accessories included strict Victorian brooches, flat patent-leather boots, and thick, metallic belts that will be among the seasons most coveted items. Prada The hard-edged, almost austere look that Miuccia Prada recently championed has clearly become a major influence this season, so its not surprising that her Fall collection continued to push forth a no-nonsense, pared-down aesthetic. Working almost exclusively in dark gray, black and brown, Prada reworked some of the looks that first made Carnaby Street chic. Paneled coats with geometric fastenings worn over skintight leggings brought to mind a nouvelle Twiggy, as did the coquettish minidresses with bright orange trim. Steering clear of superficial connotations, Prada made sure to keep her collection varied. For every mod shift there was a long, pleated skirt, a flowing Empire-waist prairie robe or a smart capelet. A couple of copper-and-white swirl dresses, several impeccable jackets spoke of understated cool, as did her all-important accessories. Patent Mary Janes and tall lace-up granny boots were worn with thick stockings, while enormous tan bags with extra-long straps swung nonchalantly at the hip. By veering away from excessive decoration and facile status references, Prada succeeded in creating a perfectly fashionable anti-fashion wardrobe. Gucci Tom Ford opened his show with sharp, narrow trousers and a fitted three-button jacket the essential Gucci laid-back uniform making it perfectly clear that mod silhouettes are a key influence for Fall. Things got progressively interesting as multiple leather-trimmed zippers and large patch-pockets appeared on coats and pants; ruffled sheer pink tops softened the masculine tailoring. The overall effect of the collection was one of assured sexiness: Short satin dresses with asymmetric necklines, basic tuxedo jackets and skimpy capelets all looked sophisticated and easy to wear. Ford also kept his accessories strong and simple: Coppery ankle-strap heels and flat boots were enough to make a powerful statement. For evening, Ford showed a series of sheer lingerie slips with binding brassiere overlays that most women will find less than practical for real life; his square-cut ribbon dresses, equipped with a side zipper for easy escape, were far more arresting. Marni In a season marked by an absence of colour, Marni designer Consuelo Castiglione bucked the all-black trend and delivered the type of sentimental yet modern clothes that will provide a welcome alternative for women who crave a romantic touch. There was nothing heavy about Castigliones papery dresses with loose ties, embroidered wrap skirts and flower-appliqué coats. Instead of the tight, vampy miniskirts that have taken over many runways, Castiglione showed flowing A-lines with pretty marigold prints, boxy and comfortable jackets with colourful square patterns, and lightweight, comfortable V-neck sweaters. Contrasting leather sashes, dark stockings and large circular totes worked wonderfully, though the Japanese-inspired wooden shoes Castiglione used may not be for everyone. For evening there were antique-looking dresses with distressed straps, beaded inlays and multiple see-through layers, as well as a striking champagne skirt. Dolce & Gabbana A moss-covered stone water fountain, flowery arches and floors strewn with autumn leaves left no doubt: Romance was in the air at Dolce & Gabbana. But needless to say, the Italian duos idea of gracious country life is far from sedate. From a wooden farmhouse emerged glamorous desert bohemians clad in extra-long hip-hugging, double-belted distressed leather pants, billowy striped tops and dangling fox tails. The vintage feeling continued with fitted corduroy trousers and oversize blazers, flea-market suede and tattered blue jeans. Dolce and Gabbana clearly had a blast mixing the old and the new; slouchy pants and oversize hobo sweaters and scarves alternated with sheer floral camisoles, sharp military coats with multiple diamanté buckles, Wild West fringed bags and tall prairie boots. In a nutshell: anything and everything a sensible girl could possibly need. |
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