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Feb.6,2005 -Feb.13,2005 |
An international dish
How different cultures have influenced Italian cooking
By Rita Simonetta
Originally Published: 2005-01-30
Italians call themselves Italian only during the World Cup of Soccer. The rest of the time they regard themselves as, perhaps, Roman, or Sicilian, and they are fiercely proud of their regional origins. This is an old joke that speaks volumes about the Italian sense of hometown loyalty and distinctiveness. Italy has borders with France, Switzerland and Austria, and is made up of 20 regions with distinct characteristics. The country was unified in 1870, which means that for a very long period of time the various regions were separate entities with strong local customs, and that distinctiveness is apparent in the different cuisines of each region.
The north and south of Italy have very different histories, and that is reflected in the food. The south has its trademark spicy dishes and pasta recipes based on fresh veggies, herbs and seasonings, while the north is known for its bevy of polenta and risotto recipes. Southern Italians cook almost exclusively with olive oil, barely touching butter or cream. But that's just scratching the surface. Indeed, food is the ultimate in building a bridge between cultures, and Italian cuisine continues to show its diverse origins.
The Greeks invaded southern parts of Italy and cemented their presence as early as 500 BC. With this presence, fish and seafood became staples of the southern Italian diet. Culinary historians also suggest that the Greeks helped take full advantage of the wild thistles growing in the area, and today southern Italy makes plenty use of these thistles in the form of the beloved artichoke. The artichoke makes a starring appearance in Spaghetti alla Siracusana, which combines carciofi with garlic, hot peppers, white wine and diced cherry tomatoes. The dish is often topped with toasted breadcrumbs. Sicilians are also found of stifado, which is a Greek way of stewing meat in red wine.
Sicily, which is situated in the south of Italy, owes a great culinary debt to Arabic influence. The Saracens (Arabs from North Africa) were an essential part of this island from 827 to 1091 AD. Arab influence on Sicilian cooking is so well known that it is now regarded as Cucina Arabo-Sicula. During the Arab era in Sicily, the Arabs brought to the island many new veggies and fruits, including the lemon, which is an integral part of many Sicilian desserts.
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