An international dish

How different cultures have influenced Italian cooking

Italians call themselves Italian only during the World Cup of Soccer. The rest of the time they regard themselves as, perhaps, Roman, or Sicilian, and they are fiercely proud of their regional origins. This is an old joke that speaks volumes about the Italian sense of hometown loyalty and distinctiveness. Italy has borders with France, Switzerland and Austria, and is made up of 20 regions with distinct characteristics. The country was unified in 1870, which means that for a very long period of time the various regions were separate entities with strong local customs, and that distinctiveness is apparent in the different cuisines of each region.
The north and south of Italy have very different histories, and that is reflected in the food. The south has its trademark spicy dishes and pasta recipes based on fresh veggies, herbs and seasonings, while the north is known for its bevy of polenta and risotto recipes. Southern Italians cook almost exclusively with olive oil, barely touching butter or cream. But that's just scratching the surface. Indeed, food is the ultimate in building a bridge between cultures, and Italian cuisine continues to show its diverse origins.
The Greeks invaded southern parts of Italy and cemented their presence as early as 500 BC. With this presence, fish and seafood became staples of the southern Italian diet. Culinary historians also suggest that the Greeks helped take full advantage of the wild thistles growing in the area, and today southern Italy makes plenty use of these thistles in the form of the beloved artichoke. The artichoke makes a starring appearance in Spaghetti alla Siracusana, which combines carciofi with garlic, hot peppers, white wine and diced cherry tomatoes. The dish is often topped with toasted breadcrumbs. Sicilians are also found of stifado, which is a Greek way of stewing meat in red wine.
Sicily, which is situated in the south of Italy, owes a great culinary debt to Arabic influence. The Saracens (Arabs from North Africa) were an essential part of this island from 827 to 1091 AD. Arab influence on Sicilian cooking is so well known that it is now regarded as Cucina Arabo-Sicula. During the Arab era in Sicily, the Arabs brought to the island many new veggies and fruits, including the lemon, which is an integral part of many Sicilian desserts.
The Arabs also introduced the eggplant, which is now widely used in the island's recipes, one of which includes Baba Ghanouj, an eggplant-based salad or dip. Eggplants are also the basis of Sicily's famous Caponata, a tart antipasto dish. Caponata is a slow-cooked mix of eggplant, raisins, onions, tomato, olives, pine nuts, olive oil, and some sugar. Involtini de melanzane (eggplant rolls) are also a hit.
But perhaps the most famous example of the Arab-Sicilian connection is Cuscusu (couscous). Couscous is made from tiny balls of semolina flour (which is used to make high-quality pasta) and water. Sicilians so love this dish they have dedicated a festival to it - the Cous Cous Fest in San Vito Lo Capo, which is celebrated in the province of Trapani every September.
The Arabs also introduced almonds to this beautiful island. Modern-day Sicily's menu includes popular candied fruits and sweets made with almond paste known as marzipan. Frutta di Martorana (or pasta reale) are almond marzipan pastries shaped to resemble fruit.
And the north of Italy is not immune to various influences from around the globe. Around 568 AD The Lombards, who were of Germanic origin, started to settle in the north of Italy. In Trieste, for example, famous, hearty, main-course meals include goulash and desserts like strudels. One variation of a goulash dish is made from potatoes, cured lard, onion, cumin, sweet paprika, tomatoes and salt.
Then there is Alto Adige, which was part of the Austrian empire for six centuries. Pork is a popular element in the menus of this beloved area, and there are endless dishes made with ham and speck (smoked ham). One recipe combines speck with garlic, laurel, juniper, pepper and other fragrant herbs. Canederli are another popular listing on the menu. These large balls are made from flour, eggs, stale bread and meats such as liver. They are enjoyed in a soup and are sometimes served alongside of goulash.

Publication Date: 2005-01-30
Story Location: http://tandemnews.com/viewstory.php?storyid=4875