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Feb 24 - March 3, 2002 |
Milan Menswear Show for Fall 2002
Collections from Cerruti, Moschino, Krizia, Coveri, and Roccobarocco feature Real Clothes For Real Men
Originally Published: 2002-02-03
The new mood in Italian men's fashion is real clothes for real men.
The Milan Menswear show last week was a qualified success! The men did not look like peacocks, and it has been a long time since the models looked like real men even on the runway. And checking out the action in the front row were Madonna, Gwyneth Paltrow, Chelsea Clinton and Boy George.
Cerruti
Roberto Menichetti made a refined debut at Cerruti, presenting a cohesive collection that, in terms of colour and cut, harked back to his days as designer of Jil Sander's men's collection. But the collection he showed last week owed little to the British label.
The new Cerruti silhouette is composed of high-buttoned, though loosely cut jackets worn with loose, flat pants and chunky boots. The cut would flatter a variety of male shapes, as would the subtle pinstripe split-suits and leather half-coats. Roberto has always been obsessed with fabric innovation, and his use of weathered and distressed leather or treated shearlings made for great clothes. Menichetti also showed some great Alpine sweaters.
Moschino
To the novice, the Moschino men's collections must seem like strange affairs. For a start, the models always are decked out with odd "accessories" - ostrich feathers sprout from the shoulders, rabbit pelts swaddle the waist as belts. However, when you strip away the wacky styling, there are plenty of fine clothes on display: surprisingly practical broad striped suits, waxed cotton pants and acid-dyed jeans.
Krizia
Knitwear for Krizia is never superfluous, even if it is abundant, and differentiates itself through close-fitting or comfortable outfits. Small cashmere pulls close on a t-shirt contrasting with satiny cardigans falling widely over the man's body. Pants don't follow secondary subordinates, they match with male movements through classic models or a fake-gym clothing. In this dialog there's also formal style, a footnote for an elegant pinstriped double-breasted suit. Then there's noisy chromatics exploring every nuance of brown and allowing bitter modulations of orange and bright blue, which reduces its rhythm according to the gentle notes of black and white.
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