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June 8 - June 15,2003 |
Time to Soup it Up
Cold soups perfect accompaniment to a warm spring day
By Rita Simonetta
Originally Published: 2003-05-25
Soups have a special place at the table. They always have. Apicius, ancient Rome's culinary expert of the day devoted a special section to zuppe in the world's first recipe collection, De re coquinaria.
By the 18th century, France's famous gastronome Grimod de la Reyniére gave soup the due he thought it deserved: "... a meal must be designed around a soup so as to be like the overture in the opera, a regal presentation."
France's King Louis XIV was such a devotee that he insisted his staff serve four starter soups before the main meal.
No wonder so many people have sang the praises of soups. They're some of the oldest forms of prepared food. The earliest zuppe were simmered in a hole in the ground above hot stones.
When most people think of soups they think of simmering bowls full of aroma and flavour. But cold soups have grown in popularity over recent years and are now a welcome addition to any spring menu. Italian cuisine, in particular, has a rich assortment of zuppe because of its emphasis on fresh and colourful vegetables.
The tomato, one of Italy's most prized possessions, is the starring attraction of many a cold zuppa. In Crema Fredda di Pomodoro (Cold Tomato Cream) the pomodoro is combined with onions, red peppers, white wine vinegar, olive oil, chopped parsley and seasoning to taste.
Chilled Tomato Soup blends tomatoes, fresh parsley, onions, dried basil and two cups of plain yogurt for a creamier starter course. Tomato-Fennel Soup has a pleasant liquorice taste and the final product is topped with chopped raw fennel.
Watercress-Tomato Soup takes a little more time to make but is well worth it. Butter, chicken broth, peeled potato, chopped tomatoes, watercress, minced parsley, sugar and milk are blended until smooth. Watercress sprigs are the perfect garnish.
Zucchini also feature prominently in soups. The vegetable can be combined with onions, garlic cloves, chicken stock, cloves, green pepper and dried basil. Mexico's version of the soup, Crema di Calabacitas, combines zucchini with cold water, cilantro, onions, flour, evaporated skim milk, and chicken broth.
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