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August 4 - August 11,2002 |
Roman fashion a challenge within a challenge
Donna Sotto Le Stelle Fall/Winter 2002/03 season by Italian designers sees a resurgence in sophisticated and classic lines
By Mariella Valdiserri
In the history of fashion, Rome has always played two important roles: keeping up the high standards of craftsmanship in tailor-made suits, and launching new talents.
In the Fifties, the up-and-coming bourgeoisie were dressed by Milan designers, but Roman tailor shops run by members of the aristocracy triumphed abroad, as nothing attracted American women like the scent of Old World nobility. Luxurious dresses were worn by blue-blood heiresses such as Princess Carafa, Princess Roccagiovane, Mimosa Pignatari, Vivina di Montezemolo, Marella Caracciolo; and bore the brand names of Carosa, i.e. Giovanna Caracciolo; Simonetta, i.e. Simonetta Colonna di Cesaṛ; and Irene Galitzine, i.e. a princess who had started out as mannequin.
This year's edition of Alta Moda a Roma not only confirmed these roles but also brought back luxury, an element that seemed all but disappeared in the past few years. It became a veritable renaissance for an event unjustly seen as spent.
For 2003, Roman designers propose an image of women as sophisticated, charming and millionaire ladies. They prefer luxury and wear crystal vortexes on breathtaking dresses previously seen only on television in Dynasty.
THE COLLECTIONS
Roman catwalks displayed an exceptional colour sense this year, unlike anything seen in the recent past. Surreal metropolitan warrior women advanced clad in long coats with well designed shoulders, or wrapped in ample, Tuareg-like cloaks. For the night, cloaks can become precious, made with a special technique that employs no less than 15 different kinds of brocade, inlaid in a sort of patchwork, like the one designed by Balestra. They hide geometric tops peppered with precious stones, corsets in tulle and satin over skirts either fringed ethnic or asymmetric and clinging. Dresses with organza and lace skirts dance along, shining with flowers, leaving the legs exposed. Dresses like artwork painted directly on the bodies of the models, made of coloured details, pendants, transparent veils, webs of embroideries, golden threads. Modern, sophisticated female dervishes advance on towering heels, sporting wide yoked skirts and well-designed corsets. Their silhouettes are veiled by impalpable, long dresses strewn with scintillating flowers.
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