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June 2 - June 9, 2002 |
A uniquely Italian grain
Risotto's arborio, canaroli and nano more than just rice
By Lynn Luciani
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Dish with beans and vegetables
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Italy is one of the major producers of high-quality rice in the world and even though Italy doesn't have an exclusive on rice, this grain plays an important role in the cuisine of the North.
Baked in a pie, sautéed with garlic, olive oil and greens or added to soups, Italians cook rice in many variations, some even similar to those in other countries. But there is one way that is typically Italian and that is risotto.
Unlike the long-grain rices that cook up light and separate, all risotto rices are fat, medium to short grain with a hard starchy centre and a soft starchy shell. It's this uniquely high concentration of sticky starch that when cooked, produces a creamy exterior and a firm centre. Hence, the luscious creamy texture of risotto.
The wonderful enchanted land of Italian rice production is in the north of Italy. The rice grown in the low lying lands of the Po Valley and its tributary the Ticino River is mostly medium to short grain Italian-style rice such as Arborio, vialone nano, carnaroli, baldo and plenty others. In North America, our selection tends to be somewhat limited to specialty stores yet the luscious, creamy texture of a good risotto depends on using the right kind of rice.
The most widely available and most familiar variety is Arborio. Comparatively speaking Arborio is not as starchy and it absorbs liquid a little less well than some of the others, but it's the perfect rice for Risotto al Tartufo when you're looking for a firm, absorbent rice with a toothy bite.
The preferred rice of the Veneto region, vialone nano can absorb twice its weight in liquid and with a starch content almost as high as carnaroli's, it also produces a very creamy risotto and is often sought after when making the famous Risotto alla Milanese because this dish calls for a highly absorbent rice that stays firm.
Hailed as the "king" or the "caviar" of Italian rices, carnaroli is the preferred risotto rice in most regions of Italy except the Veneto. It's said to produce the creamiest risotto, perfect for springtime dishes that call for fresh asparagus and leeks.
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