In Defense of the Made-in-Italy

Legendary fashion icons Missoni celebrate 50 years in the business by visiting Toronto

As it was to be expected, Vittorio Missoni and Margherita Maccapani Missoni received a lot of affection and attention. While in Toronto to take part in the Toronto Fashion Week, the two designers from the famous Italian fashion house met with industry experts, entrepreneurs, authorities, and city VIPs at the parade that presented their company's 50 years. They attended a gala at the Toulà restaurant, and a masterclass held at Ryerson University where Vittorio Missoni dispensed his precious advice to students of design.
Those have been two busy, rich days for Vittorio, the son of company founders Ottavio and Rosita, and his niece Margherita, who's been working for the company run by her mother Angela and her uncles Vittorio and Luca for some time now.
Kind, nice, and friendly Vittorio and Margherita met the press at Andrews', one of Yorkville's trendiest stores.
Vittorio, the eldest of the Missoni siblings, dressed in the blue shirt and striped vest that have been a trademark of Missoni for the past 50 years. He talked about the family business, the future of Made-in-Italy, and the teachings of his parents.
Missoni is celebrating a half century of activity. How do you manage to innovate while staying true to the style that has been yours for so long?
"Innovation is a necessity. Clearly my parents created a brand with a very strong identity, which can be instantly recognized... people see a certain garment and they say 'that's from Missoni or looks like it is...' On the one hand, this strong identity is an advantage; on the other, however, it is also a limitation, because if we made a beautiful red dress people would think it is not a Missoni and would not buy it. Anyway, we've always been willing to innovate and introduce new designs, but in the past three years we've gone further, with a generation change that was not traumatic. We didn't tell our parents 'you're too old'. We couldn't! Although Mom is 73 and Dad is 83, they have a very clear vision of today's market and lines. They're beautiful people. It was my mother, in fact, who asked my sister Angela to start designing our collections."
Is it hard to work in the family?
"Yes, it is, and I must keep the whole family together. I'm the eldest child, so I try and keep things balanced."
You mainly deal with marketing for Missoni SpA. How did you begin working for your parents' company?
"Like my brother Luca and my sister Angela, I was born and raised in the company. I played and did my homework among fabrics, colours, machinery; becoming a part of that universe was the natural thing to do... I never thought of doing anything else..."
What was your parents' most important teaching?
"To work with seriousness, never to get one's head swollen, always to keep one's feet on the ground, never to bite more than one can chew. I have to admit that perhaps we grew up slowly, and that in some years we might have expanded more. However, it's OK as it is."
What is Missoni preparing for the next 50 years?
"Managing to go 50 more years like my parents did would be nice. Yes indeed, that would be fantastic."
The night of the Oscars has become a parade of designer clothes. What do you think of this?
"That's true. When the Oscars get presented, a routine question is who's dressing whom. I must say that nowadays stars are asking us to make them glamour dresses, even though they are hardly in our tradition. However, Angela has managed to keep the Missoni tradition while refreshing our lines and giving them a more modern look, including some of these important evening gowns. Our collections continue to be more for cocktails, for the day, though."
Can you name some VIPs dressed by Missoni?
"There are so many of them... Quincy Jones, Arnold Schwarzenegger, Jennifer Lopez, Sharon Stone, Madonna, Demi Moore... Demi Moore was wearing a Missoni dress when she was first photographed with her new boyfriend, the one 15 years her younger [Ashton Kutcher], and the photo was seen all over the world. Madonna was wearing a Missoni coat bought in London when she was photographed strolling with her son Rocco. This is the strength of the media."
Who bought your most expensive dress, and for how much?
"Our designs aren't really haute couture, and our most expensive garments can reach $5,000 or $6,000. Recently we made some special fur coats costing between $10,000 and $20,000 that were bought by customers who don't like being named."
Can a woman wearing a plus size ever hope to wear a Missoni dress?
"Sure! My sister Angela is no rake herself. On the contrary, she loves eating well, but she takes good care of herself and is a beautiful woman; however, she does not design specifically for herself. Fact is, there are lines that do not fit certain body shapes, and if a lady wears a plus size it is pointless to try and squeeze herself inside a dress that makes her look awful. There is something called good taste, you know, and it must be respected, but when we design our collections we think also of those who aren't so thin."
Which country wears more Missoni?
"We export close to 80 percent of our production. A very important market is the Far East, i.e. Japan, Korea, Hong Kong, and Taiwan, absorbing 30 percent of our sales; 20-25 percent goes to North America; and finally there is Europe, where we sell a lot in Britain and are developing France. I would like to highlight that there are some new markets, such as the former Soviet Union, that must not be disregarded: there is unbelievable underground richness, and some very nice Italian fashion stores are opening. Russian customers can represent for us what Arab and Japanese women once did. After all, we are trying and covering the whole world. Canada has three big cities, Montreal, Toronto, and Vancouver, and that's where we must be; Brazil has Sao Paulo and Rio and that's where we must be... no corner of the world must be forgotten."
How do you see the future of Made in Italy fashion?
"There is some controversy nowadays, because the 'Made in Europe' trademark detracts somewhat from the idea of 'Made in Italy'. I am a staunch defender of 'Made in Italy' as a synonym for quality, something we always stressed. A garment must not simply be fashionable, it must be of good quality as well... I would go as far as forbidding the use of the 'Made in Italy' trademark to garments unworthy of that description, because that label means something more, it's added value."
Do you think that Canadians and Americans dress poorly?
"Not all of them. Like anywhere else in the world, some dress well, some dress casually, some care about it, some don't. We can say that the younger generations are more sensitive to this, and that today one can dress fashionably without spending a fortune, by accessorizing. A Missoni scarf can be combined with any basic dress, and the combination will be perfect, fashion is not an investment as it once was, haute couture is something for those who want to afford it, for an elite. As I said, a few smart accessories are all it takes to be 'in fashion'. It's neither difficult nor expensive."

Publication Date: 2004-04-04
Story Location: http://tandemnews.com/viewstory.php?storyid=3818