Cheese for the masses

Formaggio makes a delicious difference in all Italian meals

Was cheese a happy accident? According to culinary history, about 12,000 years ago a nomadic shepherd in the Mediterranean poured his day's supply of milk into a calf's stomach - the ingenious pouch he used for transportation. A day later the shepherd opened the calf's stomach and found that the milk had solidified, creating a very new and interesting substance.
Whether this is a whimsical myth or ancient historical evidence, it's a fact that today the rennet obtained from a calf's stomach is used to make cheese.
Cheese soon became a popular food product as evidenced by cave paintings found in the Libyan Sahara from 5000 B.C. The Etruscans were making sheep's milk in central Italy more than 3,000 years ago. And everyone from Homer to ancient Roman cookbook writer Marcus Apicius sang its praises.
No other country is quite as enamored with formaggio as the Italians who have produced hundreds of different cheeses.
The love affair continues today. At the Italian dinner table, cheese is an ubiquitous food product and is featured in hundreds of recipes.
The king of all Italian cheeses is Parmigiano-Reggiano. The name is bestowed on the finest aged Parmesan cheese produced in the northern Italian region of Parma. This crumbly, nutty-flavoured formaggio is made from cow's milk and it has put Emilia-Romagna on the culinary map. Perhaps the most versatile of all the Italian formaggi, Parmigiano-Reggiano is indispensable as a topping to appetizers, pasta, fish and meat courses and even desserts.
Fontina Val d'Aosta is developed in the northern Val d'Aosta region for which it's named. Made from cow's milk, fontina is a smooth cheese with a slightly buttery flavour. It's particularly good melted on top of dishes such as pizzas and soups but it's also commonly served in cheese and fruit plates.
Fusilli with fontina is a quick recipe from the Aosta Valley that is a rich and decadent pasta dish. Speaking of decadent and all things creamy, this northern region has also concocted a fondue recipe that will be sure to satisfy. Melt a cup of Fontina with a little milk and butter and spprinkle with truffle slices. You can use it as a dip for Italian rustic bread.
Famous for its blue-veined colour, gorgonzola comes from the northern region of Lombardy. It ranges from mild to sharp depending on age and is good in salads and dips. It's the starring attraction of a cream sauce in Gnocchi Gorgonzola.
Another famous product from Lombardy is Mascarpone. This white cream cheese is actually the result of a culture being added to the cream skimmed off the milk used for making Parmesan. Delicious served with fresh fruit, it's most famous for its contribution to an Italian classic dessert: Tiramisu. Made from espresso, sugar, ladyfinger cookies and liqueur, tiramisu is one of the most famous of Italian dolci.
The south of Italy boasts mozzarella, a sweet and slightly springy cheese that comes in two forms. There's the harder-to-find mozzarella di bufala, (water buffalo mozzarella). The most common type, called fiore di latte, is made from cow's milk and is packed in water. Mozzarella comes alive in salads and antipasto dishes. It's particularly wonderful when melted over Italian bread or in sandwiches as in Mozzarella in Carrozza (fried mozzarella sandwich).
With a slightly smoky flavour and mellow, smooth taste, provolone also takes its rightful place at the Italian table. This southern Italian cheese is tasty in sandwiches or enjoyed as part of a cheese and fruit plate. It's served with a drizzle of olive oil in Insalata Caprese.
Made from cow's milk, ricotta is a creamy, mild cheese that is commonly used in lasagna. This basin-shaped cheese is also good on its own. For a quick appetizer or side dish, simply fry slices of ricotta and add some salt, pepper and oregano. Paste e ricotta is a smooth and creamy recipe that's great for the upcoming fall days. Cook penne or rigatoni according to package directions. Melt two tablespoons of butter with one cup of ricotta. Pour the mixture on top of the pasta and sprinkle with red pepper flakes.
Pecorino describes all cheese made from sheep's milk, and the most prized of all these is Pecorino Romano, the name given to the variation made in Rome. With its intense peppery flavour, this formaggio works best alongside capers, olives, eggplant and zucchini.

Publication Date: 2003-09-21
Story Location: http://tandemnews.com/viewstory.php?storyid=3162