Dessert ready on a stem

Making a pit stop for the Niagara region's summer cherries

In the front of my home in Niagara Falls, guarding the entrance of the driveway, are two very old cherry trees. As far as I can tell, they date back to the early 1900s when this area of Queenston was planted in fruit orchards and vineyards. Over the years my twin trees have become wild and, sadly, no longer bear fruit that would tempt a cherry lover. These old, gnarled trees are burdened with plenty of tiny, wild cherries that draw every bird in the region.
Cherries have pleased the palates of food lovers for centuries. Their ruby-red colour and tangy taste won the fruit a place on the tables of Roman conquerors, Greek citizens and Chinese noblemen. By 1847, cherry trees had reached the west coast of North America, transported by employees of the Hudson's Bay Company.
Today cherries are no longer reserved for the noble and well to do. They're here for all of us to indulge in, but if you're a sweet cherry lover, you'd better get out there pronto. The season started just a week ago, but within another 10 days, it just might be over. This has been a surprising year for sweet cherries. The cooler than normal spring conditions resulted in very poor pollination of the pink blossoms. This means a lower than average crop - but a higher than average sweetness and intensity of flavour, so they're extra delicious this year!
Big, fat, black, sweet cherries are a joy to eat! But I recently found out that Ontario now grows the extra sweet and firm ciliege bianche (white cherries). I was first introduced to this delicious variety when travelling through the northern parts of Italy in the springtime. I was doing the "agriturismo" thing. You know, renting out accommodation at country farms, vineyards and olive estates. On the one farm we stayed at, there was a white cherry tree in the courtyard. I remember eating them for breakfast, lunch, dinner and every spare minute in between.
The fruit is a pale red colour on one side and a creamy white on the other. They're firm and juicy with very, very sweet white flesh inside. In Canada, the ciliege bianche are reserved for the gourmet market, but if you know where to get them, the time is now!
It's estimated that 80 percent of all sweet cherries sold are eaten straight out of hand - which is why so many of them are sold in small clear containers. Just a bit of rinsing is required, a comfortable chair, a large front porch and a good friend. Then, remove the stem, pop a cherry into your mouth and spit the pits out over the porch railing as far as you can. It's the perfect lazy Saturday afternoon pastime.
But for those who love to be creative with summer's fresh fruit, black sweet cherries offer more ideas than there are days in the year. One of my favourites is a cherry, zabaglione and chocolate cream tart. In the heat of the summer you can purchase a pre-baked piecrust making this an easy and impressive dessert. Just melt some semi-sweet chocolate and line the bottom of the crust with the melted chocolate. When it sets add enough pitted black sweet cherries to cover the bottom. Pour over the zabaglione and chill overnight. Just before you're ready to serve it, sprinkle shaved dark chocolate over the top.
Cherries are not just for dessert. A cherry Barolo sauce is excellent with lamb, and cherry salsa with a hint of balsamic is a fresh accompaniment with grilled pork chops. It's an incredibly versatile and luscious fruit.
But cooks don't really need recipes to enjoy sweet cherries. They really are a dessert-on-a-stem and this is the only time of year you can indulge, so get those fingers cherry stained and have a great lazy afternoon.

Publication Date: 2002-07-21
Story Location: http://tandemnews.com/viewstory.php?storyid=1584